Most of us usually struggle with some kind of brown or ashen pigmentation problem, regardless of your ethnic background or skin color. Skin will either appear lighter or darker than normal in concentrated
areas, or you may notice blotchy, uneven patches of brown to gray
discoloration or freckling.
Skin pigmentation problems only occur because the body produces either too
much or too little melanin. Melanin is the pigment in skin produced by
specific cells (melanocytes). It is triggered by an enzyme called
tyrosinase, which creates the color of our skin, eyes, and hair. This
faulty melanin production is primarily caused by chronic unprotected sun
exposure or hormones (particularly during pregnancy or from taking
birth control pills).
As far as skin is concerned, depending on how much is present,
melanin does provide some amount of sun protection by absorbing the
sun's ultraviolet light. This explains why darker skin colors are less
susceptible to sunburn and the overall effects of sun damage. But less
susceptible doesn't mean immune from problems.
What to Do? Start with Sunscreen!
Store shelves are lined with products claiming to lighten skin. But
without question, the first line of defense is smart sun behavior
(meaning avoidance or, at the very least, careful exposure) along with
the daily use (365 days a year) and liberal application (and, when
needed, reapplication) of a well-formulated sunscreen.
Diligent use of a sunscreen alone allows some repair as well as
protection from further sun damage, which is what created the problem in
the first place.
No other aspect of controlling or reducing skin discolorations is as
important as being careful about exposing your skin to the sun and the
use of sunscreen, SPF 25 or greater (and greater is usually better),
with the UVA-protecting ingredients of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide,
avobenzone, Mexoryl SX, or Tinosorb. Using effective skin-lightening products,
exfoliants, peels or laser treatments without also using a sunscreen
will prove to be a waste of time and money. Sun exposure is one of the
primary causes of the skin discoloration disorder melasma, and other
treatments can't keep up with the sun's daily assault on the skin.
Before you look at any other option for brown or ashen
skin discolorations, start with applying sunscreen and reducing sun exposure.
It Takes a Village
While sunscreen and avoiding direct sun exposure is essential,
inhibiting increased melanin production stimulated by long term sun
damage is equally important. There are many options to consider when
searching for a solution. The most successful treatments use a
combination of topical lotions or gels containing melanin-inhibiting
ingredients along with a well-formulated sunscreen, and a prescription
retinoid (such as Renova or generic versions containing tretinoin, a
type of retinoid). Depending on how the skin responds to these
treatments, exfoliants—either in the form of topical skin-care products
or chemical peels done by a physician or lasers or intense pulsed light
treatments can definitely enhance results.
Topical Treatments
Topical hydroquinone is a key step in reducing or eliminating skin
discolorations. In fact, topical application of hydroquinone is
considered by many dermatologists and extensive research to be a safe
and effective treatment for skin discolorations. Topical hydroquinone in
2% concentrations from cosmetic companies and 4% concentrations
available from a physician or by prescription should definitely be a
consideration. For more information about hydroquinone.
Some research has shown topical azelaic acid in 15% to 20%
concentrations to be as efficacious as hydroquinone with a decreased
risk of irritation. Tretinoin by itself has also been shown to be
especially useful in treating hyperpigmentation of sun-damaged skin.
Kojic acid, alone or in combination with glycolic acid or hydroquinone,
also has shown good results due to its inhibitory action on tyrosinase
(though kojic acid has had its share of problems in terms of stability
and potential negative effects on the skin and is rarely being used
nowadays). Several plant extracts and vitamin C also have some research
showing them to be effective for inhibiting melanin production, but
hydroquinone has the most impressive amount of research overall.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)—primarily
in the form of lactic acid and glycolic acid—are the most researched
forms of AHAs because they have a molecular size that allows effective
penetration into the top layers of skin. It is generally assumed that in
and of themselves AHAs in concentrations of 4% to 15% are not effective
for inhibiting melanin production and won't lighten skin discolorations
in that manner. Rather, it is believed that their benefit is in helping
cell turnover rates and removing unhealthy or abnormal layers of
superficial skin cells (exfoliation) where hyperpigmented cells can
accumulate. However, other research has shown that lactic and glycolic
acids can indeed inhibit melanin production separate from their actions
as an exfoliant on skin.
Either way, there is a good amount of evidence that in combination
with other treatments—such as hydroquinone, tretinoin, and, of course,
an effective sunscreen—AHAs can be very effective for improving the
overall appearance of sun-damaged skin and possibly helping other
ingredients penetrate skin better. While there is no comparative
research in regards to salicylic acid (BHA) and its effect on melasma,
it makes sense to assume that because salicylic acid exerts a similar
action on skin as AHAs, it will have similar results for improving skin
color.
Laser Treatments
Both ablative and nonablative lasers and light treatments
administered by a dermatologist can have a profound improvement on
melasma. However, the results are not always consistent, and problems
can occur (such as hypo- or hyperpigmentation). Moreover, laser
treatments of this kind often are a problem for those with darker skin
tones. Nonetheless, when laser treatments work they can have a marked
difference in the skin's appearance, especially when used in combination
with the other topical treatments previously mentioned. The results can
be startling, and though expensive, for stubborn discolorations, lasers
are absolutely worth a try. There are many types of lasers that can be
successful for this purpose. Which one is optimal for you is best
determined by a skilled dermatologist who has a practice that
incorporates a variety of different lasers and/or light-emitting
devices.
Seeing brown spots? Too many days in the sun or routine exposure to
daylight can result in unsightly clusters of melanin (skin’s pigment)
showing up on your face, neck, and chest—all areas routinely exposed to
UV light. As frustrating as these brown spots are, there’s hope in the
form of skin lighteners. The catch? You need to know how to add them to
your daily routine, you need patience, and, most important, you need sun
protection! Ahead, we reveal how to add a Paula’s Choice skin lightener
(or lighteners) to your routine for great results—advice that also
applies to skin lighteners from other brands!
Of course, the obvious expected result from using a skin lightener is
for the dark or brown spots to get lighter. And if they fade
completely, that’s even better! With once- or twice-daily usage, you can
reasonably expect a skin-lightening product containing proven
ingredients to progressively lighten your dark spots.
Sadly, this lightening won’t happen overnight. It’s important to keep
this in perspective; while we completely understand the desire to see
those spots fade NOW, keep in mind that it took several years of ongoing
daylight exposure for the spots to form and then show up. So, reason
dictates these slow-to-form brown spots require patience and persistence
as you wait for them to fade. Most of us will need to use a lightening
product every day, morning and evening, for at least 3 months before
significant results can be seen.
What you shouldn’t expect from a skin lightener is for it to work
while you continue to expose your skin to UV light without sun
protection or continue to tan. We’ll go into detail on this later in the
article, but the key point is that
no skin-lightening product can be that effective if you’re not willing to protect your skin daily from further UV damage.
And if you want to keep tanning, a skin lightener won’t work at all.
Sun protection (and, some dermatologists would stress, sun avoidance) is
a key part of lightening brown spots and preventing new ones. This may
sound harsh, but if you’re not willing to commit to daily sun protection
no matter what, there’s no sense in using any skin-lightening products
because you will be steadily undoing what they’re trying to fix.
Now, there are only a handful of ingredients with
impressive, substantiated research on their ability to lighten brown
spots. They work in a variety of ways to interrupt the process that
"fuels" these spots, which is one more reason you may need to use more
than one skin lightener. Here are the tried-and-true ingredients to look
for when shopping for a great skin-lightening product:
- Hydroquinone (widely considered the gold standard)
- Vitamin C (ascorbic acid and derivatives), when used in higher concentrations
- Niacinamide
- Licorice extract
- Acetyl glucosamine
There are a few others to consider, and research is examining new
options all the time, but to date, the ones listed above have the best
track records and show up in a range of skin-lightening
products—including those from Paula’s Choice!
Sunscreen is a Must
We touched on this above, and it bears repeating:
No skin-lightening product will be of much use if you’re not willing to apply a broad spectrum sunscreen every day of the year,
whether it’s cloudy or sunny, even if you’ll be indoors for most of the
day. If you can see daylight, even if you’re in your home or office,
it’s affecting your skin and keeping your brown spots from responding as
well as they otherwise would to treatment. UVA rays—the kind that can
trigger DNA damage in skin—can penetrate windows.
Scary fact: One bout of unprotected sun exposure can undo months of progress with a skin-lightening product.
There’s simply no room for compromise here: Sun protection and skin
lighteners are a package deal. When it comes to treating brown spots,
one cannot work as well without the other— both play critical roles in
lightening the brown spots you see now AND those you don’t want to see
later!
For sun protection tips, see our article Sun Sense: What You Must Know.
Even if you’re using one of the best skin-lightening products out
there and being diligent about daily sun protection, your dark spots may
not improve much, if at all. Why is this? Simply put, some
discolorations are deeper in the skin and, as a result, much more
stubborn or slow to respond to topical treatments.
What to do? You can consider seeing a dermatologist for a series of
light-emitting or laser treatments (these can help a lot), a
prescription product with a higher amount of hydroquinone, or a series
of chemical peels. But before you make an appointment, consider adding a
second—or potentially a third—lightening product to your routine and
see how your brown spots respond after several more weeks (sigh...see
what we mean by 'patience is needed'?).
Research has shown
that for some people, a combination of active skin lightening
ingredients is needed for optimal results. Hydroquinone or vitamin C
alone might not be enough. Here are some potential pairings of Paula’s
Choice skin-lightening products should you determine you’d like (or
need) to use more than one product to reduce or possibly eliminate your
brown spots:
Resist Triple Action Dark Spot Eraser (hydroquinone) + Resist C15 Super Booster(15% vitamin C + other antioxidants)
Tip: Apply C15 first, after your AHA or BHA exfoliant, then follow with the Triple Action Dark Spot Eraser.
Resist Pure Radiance Skin Brightening Treatment
(niacinamide, acetyl glucosamine, and licorice extract) + Resist
Vitamin C Spot Treatment (25% ascorbic acid) or, for allover use, try
the Power Couple of Resist C15 Super Booster and Pure Radiance Skin Brightening Treatment.
Tip: Apply the Skin Brightening Treatment all over (it makes
a great primer, too!) and add the Vitamin C Spot Treatment to the dark
spots.
Resist Triple Action Dark Spot Eraser (hydroquinone) + Clinical 1% Retinol Treatment (retinol in higher strengths can improve stubborn dark spots).
Tip: If your skin cannot tolerate a high-strength retinol product,
try applying less often, such as twice per week, or mix with a few drops
of Resist Moisture Renewal Oil Booster to enhance your skin’s tolerance.
Be sure your daily skincare routine includes products loaded with
anti-aging ingredients that can play a supporting role in helping to
make your skin tone look younger and more even.
Treating Sun Spots Below the Neck + Other Body Concerns
Reducing fine lines, wrinkles, and discolorations (not to mention
restoring a healthy glow) are skin-care goals many people have. Yet many
of us focus almost exclusively on skin from the neck up, not even
trying to get the same benefits for skin elsewhere on our body.
The biggest signs of aging we see on our faces—brown discolorations,
dryness, crepey skin, sagging—can appear on your arms, décolleté
(chest), legs, and everywhere else, too. The good news is these concerns
can be addressed by repairing past damage with a few targeted products
whose prices won't break the bank.
The Best Anti-Aging Defense is a Good Offense
Consisitent use of a sunscreen is the most important thing you can do to
slow the signs of aging—at any age—whether you're 16 or 66. One area we
often neglect when applying our daily SPF-rated sunscreen is our hands,
but our hands get at least as much UV exposure as our face! Brown sun
spots and crepey skin on our hands are dead giveaways of sun-damage
accumulated over decades—how
many decades is a fact that many of us prefer not to broadcast. Consider Resist Ultimate Anti-Aging Hand Cream SPF 30,
a rich cream that provides serious moisture, proven antioxidants, and a
water-Resistant sunscreen that dries to a clear finish.
Solutions for Sun Spots Below the Neck
Keep your skin soft while targeting discolored areas with a daily
exfoliant—but not a body scrub or loofah. Physical exfoliation will not
lead to younger, more even-toned skin because it tears away at the skin,
damaging collagen. Instead, use an AHA (glycolic acid) or BHA (salicylic acid) exfoliant
to smooth and gently clear away dead skin, fade brown spots, stimulate
collagen production, and soften dry, rough areas. Paula's Choice Resist Skin Revealing Body Lotion with 10% AHA is great for sun-damaged areas. If you also have breakouts or red bumps, go for Paula's Choice Resist Weightless Body Treatment with 2% BHA.
Retinol: Not Just for Your Face
Antioxidants and cell-communicating ingredients are among the
superstars that keep skin healthier and younger. They accomplish this by
warding off the free-radical damage that contributes to signs of aging,
and retinol is one of the hardest workers of the bunch!
Anti-aging routines shouldn't neglect your body. Target the skin
below your neck, especially chest and arms, with a retinol-infused body
treatment like Paula's Choice Resist Retinol Skin-Smoothing Body Treatment.
Retinol works best when paired with other beneficial ingredients—that's
why Resist Retinol Body Treatment contains such ingredients as
glycerin, shea butter, evening primrose oil, and antioxidants like
vitamin C.
Ditch Your Skin-Damaging Habits
When youthful skin below the neck is the goal, what you
avoid is just as important as the products you use! Preserve that healthy glow and smooth, even skin by breaking these bad habits:
- Get yourself out of hot water. A steamy shower or
bath may feel nice in the short-term, but doing it too often or soaking
too long will result in alligator-like dry, damaged skin. High
temperatures do a number on your skin's protective barrier, stealing the
substances in the skin that keeps your healthy outer layers smooth and
intact. Keep the water temperature warm, not hot, and don't linger in
the bath or shower!
- Fragrance = "Eau de Dermatitis." Many people
select body-care products with their nose, but fragrance isn't skin
care—far from it. Skip the fragrance if you want to keep your skin at
its best, whether above or below the neck. From your head to your toes,
find out why fragrance-free products are always the best choice.
- Clean up your diet. Eating the wrong foods (or not
enough of the right ones) plays a significant role in more than just
our waistlines. Too much sugar or inflammation-promoters, such as overly
processed foods, trans-fat, and red meat, create a free-radical buffet
that contributes to (You guessed it!) signs of aging. Read up on the
foods to look for (and what to cut out) for healthier, younger-looking
skin.
The Bottom Line (for More than Just Your Bottom)
Anti-aging isn't just for your face—keeping the skin below your neck
smoother, firmer, and more even-toned is as easy as picking the right
products and treatments. Stick to recommended products that
do more,
like those loaded with innovative ingredients, and don't forget the
sunscreen! Keeping from the neck down, protected from daily sun damage
is the #1 most important thing you can do to ensure smooth, healthy,
spot-free, and—OK, we'll say it—sexy skin.
Hydroquinone for Skin Lightening
History has it that hydroquinone has become a controversial
skin-care ingredient for topical use. What is known for certain is that
hydroquinone is a strong inhibitor of melanin production and for over 50
years has been established as the most effective ingredient for
reducing and potentially eliminating brown skin discolorations on skin
often referred to as melasma.
Concentration Counts!
In different concentrations
hydroquinone inhibits or prevents skin from making the enzyme
responsible for triggering melanin, the chief pigment that gives skin
its color (Source:
Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, March 2010,
pages 215-218). Over-the-counter hydroquinone products can contain 0.5%
to 2% concentrations, with 2% being the most effective OTC amount. At
the pharmacy, 4% concentrations of hydroquinone (and sometimes even
higher) are available by prescription only. A concentration of 12%
hydroquinone actually prevents the production of melanin altogether.
Misinformation Breeds Confusion
What
is confusing to the consumer is the exaggerated information about
possible negative side effects from using hydroquinone products. Yet a
closer look at the research indicates problematic skin reactions are
rare and, more often than not, minor. The most startling risk is a skin
disorder called ochronosis which is a bluing discoloration of the skin.
Although that's scary stuff, it's important to keep in mind that with
millions of gallons of hydroquinone used over the past 50 years, only a
handful of ochronosis cases have been directly associated to using
hydroquinone. What's more, these cases have been a result of long term
use of high concentrations, or of using hydroquinone products that have
been adulterated with dangerous ingredients (Sources:
Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, July 2009, pages 741-750; and
Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, November 2007, pages 854-872).
The Hydroquinone Ban Should Be Lifted!
Hydroquinone-based
products were banned in South Africa years ago where the most severe
problems occurred. However, hydroquinone products in South Africa and
other African countries were found to also contain mercury and
glucocorticoids, among other caustic and illegal contaminants, which is
believed by many to be the cause of the serious side effects seen
(Sources:
International Journal of Dermatology, February 2005, pages 112–115; and
British Journal of Dermatology,
March 2003, pages 493–500). Countries that are part of the European
Union have banned hydroquinone chiefly on the basis of these reports.
This ban is frustrating to many because when properly formulated,
hydroquinone is not a harmful ingredient and there's no substantiated
research proving otherwise.
Is Hydroquinone Carcinogenic?
Questions
concerning hydroquinone in terms of it being a carcinogen have also
been addressed in the research. Problematic incidences have been shown
when hydroquinone was fed or injected into rats in large doses, though
with topical use there has been no research showing it to be mutagenic
on humans or animals. In reality, there is abundant research showing
hydroquinone to be safe and extremely effective
Interestingly,
hydroquinone happens to be a potent antioxidant and there is even
research showing that workers who handle pure hydroquinone actually have
lower incidences of cancer than the population as a whole.
Natural Alternatives to Hydroquinone
Ironically, plant extracts such as
Mitracarpus scaber (madder) extract,
Uva ursi (bearberry) extract,
Morus bombycis (mulberry),
Morus alba (white mulberry), and
Broussonetia papyrifera
(paper mulberry) touted as being natural skin lightening agents
actually break down into hydroquinone when absorbed into skin, which
explains why they have a positive effect. Another natural alternative is
arbutin which also, you guessed it, breaks down into hydroquinone in
skin.
Whether or not you consider using hydroquinone in a
skin-care product is of course up to you. What is abundantly clear is
that hydroquinone is a well-researched ingredient, incredibly effective
for its intended purpose, and that no other skin lightening ingredient
compares to its effectiveness.
Hydroquinone Hates Air!
One
critical point to keep in mind: hydroquinone can turn a strange shade
of brown with prolonged, daily exposure to air or sunlight. When you are
considering a hydroquinone product, it is essential to be sure it is
packaged in a non-transparent container that doesn't let light in and
that minimizes the amount of air exposure. Hydroquinone products
packaged in jars are absolutely not recommended because once opened they
quickly become ineffective.
Options Beyond Hydroquinone
For
other potential options for skin lightening—though with far less
research or impressive and consistent improvement—niacinamide, licorice
extract (specifically glabridin), azelaic acid, and stabilized forms of
vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid, and magnesium ascorbyl
phosphate) can also be considered. There is also no research showing
exactly how much of each ingredient is needed to achieve results so you
have to trust the cosmetic company making the claims, and we all know
how reliable that is! Still, some companies, such as Procter &
Gamble (P&G, owner of brands such as Olay and DDF) are amassing an
impressive body of research concerning skin lightening ingredients that
rival the effectiveness of hydroquinone.
How to Use Over-the-Counter & Prescription Retinol Products
Retinol (more commonly known as Vitamin A) is great for your skin, no
question. But because there are several forms of retinol it is hard to
know which one to use. Should you try over-the-counter retinol or ask
your dermatologist about prescription retinol (retinoid) products? And
how does it fit in with your skin-care routine?
Retinol is just another simple name for the entire vitamin A molecule. It is considered a
cosmetic ingredient
and found only in non-prescription products (mostly skin care). Retinol
can be broken down to become other forms of vitamin A that are found in
skin-care products or prescription products.
An example of a cosmetic form of retinol in skin care products is
retinyl palmitate. Generally, pure retinol is considered more effective
than retinol derivatives.
Prescription retinol products such as Renova and Retin-A contain the active ingredient
tretinoin. Tretinoin is far more potent than retinol, but comes with a higher chance of irritation.
Why is Retinol Good for the Skin?
Whether in over-the-counter or prescription form,
vitamin A in all its forms works as a cell-communicating ingredient.
That means it can actually tell a skin cell to behave and even look
like a more normal, younger cell. When you have sun damaged skin this
communication is incredibly beneficial because sun damaged skin produces
unhealthy, abnormal, and inflexible skin cells.
When dermatologists discuss "prescription retinol", they're referring
to various forms of vitamin A that can only be used in prescription
medications. Renova or Retin-A are the best known prescription forms of
retinol containing the most "active" form called tretinoin (also known
as all trans retinoic acid or retinoic acid). We know all of these terms
can be confusing, but this list should help make things easier to
understand:
- Retin-A has a lightweight cream texture and is most often prescribed for acne.
- Retin-A Micro has a gel texture with a matte finish that's best for oily, acne-prone skin
- Renova has an emollient texture and is prescribed for wrinkles/sun damage.
- Tri-Luma contains tretinoin along with prescription-strength hydroquinone and is prescribed for discolorations and melasma. Note: Because the steroid this contains may cause skin thinning with prolonged use, short-term usage of this product is advised.
- Atralin, Avita, Altinac, Refissa, and Tretin-X are other prescription-only products with tretinoin.
- Tretinoin is also available as a generic that is just as effective as brand name versions.
Regardless of brand or texture, tretinoin fights wrinkles, uneven
skin tone, and breakouts. Which one to use should be based on your
physician's recommendation and, to some extent, your personal
preference.
Other Prescription Forms of Retinol (Retinoids)
Beyond the active ingredient tretinoin found in the prescription-only
products mentioned above, the two other most common prescription forms
of vitamin A/retinol are
Differin, which contains adapalene, and
Tazorac, which contain tazarotene.
Both of these are typically prescribed for acne. Neither has as much
anti-wrinkle research as tretinoin but theoretically both should provide
similar antiaging benefits. Generally, Differin is worth considering if
you have acne but your skin cannot tolerate prescription retinoid
products.
Is Prescription Retinol Better for Me?
Retinol in all its forms, over the counter or prescription-only, is
excellent for preventing and improving signs of aging. But in order for
the over-the-counter (cosmetic) version of the entire vitamin A/retinol
molecule to be effective it must break down into the active form
(tretinoin) found in prescription vitamin A products.
Keep these facts in mind to help you determine
which form is best for your needs:
- Prescription-strength forms of retinol are "stronger" and work
faster. Cosmetic retinol takes longer to have an effect but in the long
run it works the same.
- Prescription-strength forms of vitamin A/retinol (tretinoin)
present a greater a risk of causing irritation. For some people the
irritation never goes away and they can't use it.
- Cosmetic retinol has a far lower risk of causing irritation but
because it is still breaking down in your skin to become the active
prescription form (tretinoin) it can also be irritating.
- It takes experimenting to see which frequency of application works
best for you; many find that using retinol 2–3 times per week works
great while others can use it every day.
Can I Use AHA or BHA if I'm Using a Prescription or Cosmetic Retinol Product?
A common misperception about retinol is that it exfoliates your skin.
Vitamin A/retinol in any of its forms does not do the same thing as
AHAs or BHA. AHAs and BHA exfoliate the surface layers of dead built-up
skin, improving sun damaged or genetically thickened skin cells.
Whether over-the-counter or prescription form, retinol is a
cell-communicating ingredient that "tells" skin cells to make healthier,
younger cells and can enhance the production of new skin cells. It is
not an exfoliant.
Where it gets confusing is because retinol in both over-the-counter
and prescription products can cause flaking. Because of this side
effect, people assume it is also exfoliating their skin.
Flaking skin is not exfoliation.
AHAs and BHA help skin do what it should be doing naturally, and
naturally you don't see your healthy skin cells shed. Instead, you just
see a smooth, renewed skin surface and a healthy glow.
For the best anti-aging, anti-wrinkle benefit it is ideal to use both an exfoliant and a vitamin A/retinol product.
PS: If you've heard that you can't use retinol with vitamin C (or AHA
& BHA exfoliants) due to claims the ingredients deactivate one
another, not to worry, this isn't accurate in the least. Check out our myth-busting article on this very topic for more details.
How to Use Your Prescription Retinol (Retinoid) Product
Here is how to use a prescription retinol product (with the active ingredient
*tretinoin) with your daily skin-care routine:
- Cleanse, tone, and exfoliate your skin with your AHA or BHA product as usual.
- Next, apply the prescription product.
- If you're using a skin lightening product too, apply it after the prescription retinoid.
- Proceed with your moisturizer and/or serum, which can also be applied around your eyes.
More Tips:
- To help your skin get used to prescription-strength retinol, apply every other day, always at night (sunlight deactivates the active ingredient).
- If your skin tolerates it you can then gradually move up to once daily application, but always at night.
- Keep in mind that more is not better; only a pea-sized dab is needed for your entire face!
- It is OK to apply tretinoin (the main prescription retinoid) at the same time as benzoyl peroxide.
What Else You Need to Know:
- Retinol products may be applied underneath the eye, but not on the eyelids or underbrow area.
- It is OK to use an over-the-counter retinol product with a prescription retinol product. Which one to apply first is up to you.
- If you notice signs of irritation (flaking, redness, sensitivity)
do not double up on retinol products and/or decrease frequency of
application.
Important note: whether you choose an
over-the-counter or prescription retinol product, daily use of a well
formulated sunscreen rated SPF 25 or greater is a must! Even the most
effective, research-proven antiaging ingredients won't work like you
want them to if you're not diligent about sun protection. After all, sun
damage created most of what you're using antiaging products to improve!
For best results, any form of vitamin A/retinol
should be used with other anti-aging products containing rejuvenating ingredients
such as antioxidants, skin-repairing ingredients, and different
cell-communicating ingredients such as niacinamide. Despite retinol's
superstar status, treating signs of aging is far more complex than any
one ingredient can address!
How Does Vitamin C Help Skin?
If you have really shopped the skincare aisle lately (or in the last decade),
you know that there is no shortage of anti-aging ingredients on the
market. Despite the marketing hype often assigned to a single
ingredient, research is clear that using a range of beneficial
ingredients is always best for keeping skin at its healthiest. There are
some exceptions—standout ingredients that, whether included among a mix
of beneficial ingredients or in a concentrated treatment, are among a
select few that can treat multiple skincare concerns. Vitamin C is one
such example!
Here, we’ll share the research-proven results you should expect from
vitamin C, we’ll discuss whether one form is better than another, and
share how you can incorporate this powerhouse antioxidant into your
skincare routine.
Vitamin C for Anti-Aging & Brighter, Healthier Skin
In any form (and we’ll get to which types work best), vitamin C
provides potent antioxidant protection, shielding skin from damaging
free radicals—those pesky rogue molecules that promote premature aging.
The most abundant forms of free-radical damage are environmental factors
we can’t escape—think sun damage, pollution and oxygen—that assault
skin on a daily basis, but that’s where topical vitamin C can help.
When incorporated into your daily skincare lineup, well-formulated
products containing vitamin C can provide a range of benefits that keep
your skin younger-looking, longer! See what C can do:
- Reduce the appearance of brown spots and other types of sun damage
- Helps boost healthy collagen production (hello, firmer skin!)
- Reduce inflammation and irritation, both of which cause a cascade of damage
- Fade post-breakout red marks by improving skin’s natural healing response
- Increase the effectiveness of your sunscreens and boosts your skins defense against UV exposure
Ascorbic acid—also known as L-ascorbic acid—has the most research of
any form of vitamin C when it comes to benefits for skin. For that
reason, ascorbic acid is the most form of vitamin C used in well
formulated skincare products. When properly formulated, it helps create
younger, firmer skin while fading signs of sun damage and post-acne
marks.
Ascorbic acid is also a powerhouse when mixed with other
antioxidants, or when used alone in higher concentrations, such as 15%
or 20% or greater, amounts that can be great for treating extra-stubborn
concerns.
Recommended Treatments: Add a few drops of Paula’s Choice Resist C15 Super Booster—a
15% ascorbic acid + peptide treatment—to your favorite serum or
moisturizer for dramatically brighter, firmer and healthier skin.
Want to target a particularly stubborn brown spot, red mark or wrinkle? Dab a small amount of the Paula’s Choice Resist Vitamin C Spot Treatment, a 25% ascorbic acid concentrate, to the bothersome area and watch them beat a hasty retreat.
Vitamin C: The Extended Family
Good news: There isn’t a single “best” form of vitamin C, but there
are only a handful that research has demonstrated are the most stable
and effective. Other effective forms include sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate, retinyl ascorbate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate—each
derivatives of vitamin C, but all with less supporting research than
ascorbic acid (but what research does exist is certainly encouraging).
Each of these forms of vitamin C has a range of benefits that include
repair and protection from free- radical damage; the takeaway is that
these are more beneficial when added to a blend with
other proven
antioxidants and cell-communicating ingredients. Look for products that
include these with ingredients such as green tea, ascorbic acid,
retinol, and/or niacinamide.
Note: All antioxidants, including vitamin C, are vulnerable to destabilizing when exposed to air and light (Skin Research and Technology, 2008).
That means if you want to reap the reward of your antioxidant-enriched
treatments, only choose those that are packaged in opaque tubes,
air-restrictive bottles, or pumps that help keep their ingredients
stable!
Recommended Treatments: You’ll find multiple forms of vitamin C in many Paula’s Choice products. Get even more information on how adding a serum or retinol treatment
that contains a proven mix of vitamin C and other beneficial
ingredients can help improve the anti-aging results of your skincare
routine!
Bottom Line
With millions of research around its benefits, vitamin C is a
long-established skincare superstar that can help you achieve younger,
healthier and more radiant skin. However, like any ingredient, skincare
will never be as simple as any single ingredient—just as no single food
or nutrient can keep your body healthy, you need more than just one
ingredient to keep your skin in good shape, too!
It’s important to mention that vitamin C forms are effective in lower
concentrations, so don’t get caught up in the belief that only higher
strengths are beneficial for skin. Research has shown that
concentrations as low 0.6% provide antioxidant and anti-aging benefits
to skin (Skin Research and Technology, 2008).
Depending on your concerns, you may do just fine using a
regular-strength vitamin C product, especially is said product also
contains a range of great ingredients to smooth, repair, and replenish
skin.
Without question, vitamin C is a powerful tool in your anti-aging
arsenal. For best results, use it strategically and as part of a routine
that includes a daily broad-spectrum sunscreen plus irritant-free
products that contain a skin-pleasing mix of antioxidants,
skin-repairing agents, and cell-communicating ingredients.
Want to know more about another hall-of-fame skincare ingredient? Check out our article, “6 Retinol Myths, Busted” for the basics on getting the most from your retinol treatment—as well as the retinol beauty myths you shouldn’t believe!
How to Exfoliate Skin
Without question, everyone can benefit from daily use of a well
formulated AHA (alpha hydroxy acid such as glycolic and lactic acids) or
BHA (beta hydroxy acid, also known as salicylic acid) product. Each
provides multiple benefits, including fighting signs of aging and
breakouts.
How Exfoliation Works
Skin naturally sheds billions of skin cells each day. When this
natural shedding slows or stops due to sun damage, dry skin, oily skin,
genetics, or different skin disorders, the results are unmistakable:
dull, dry, or flaky skin; clogged pores; blemishes; white bumps; and
uneven skin tone. Using an exfoliant steps in to help put everything in
balance again. When you gently get rid of built-up skin cells you can
undo clogged pores, stop breakouts, smooth out wrinkles, even make dry
skin become a thing of the past!
Exfoliating Can Make You Look Instantly Younger
How is that possible? Think about it in comparison to the skin on
your heels before you get a pedicure. The built-up, dead layers of skin
on your heels usually looks dry, rough, discolored, scaly, and lines are
really obvious. Once that layer is removed, your heels immediately look
smooth and unwrinkled! Of course, what causes calluses on your feet is
different than what causes skin cells to build up on your face, but the
same benefit of exfoliating heels holds true for your face; you just
have to be far gentler. With well formulated AHA or BHA exfoliants, that's easy to do!
What's The Difference Between AHA and BHA Exfoliants?
Great question! When properly formulated, both AHAs and BHA are
brilliant options for exfoliating the surface of skin. Both AHA and BHA
work to reduce wrinkles, stimulate collagen, and firm skin but each has
its special qualities you'll want to consider when deciding which one to
use:
- AHAs are preferred for sun-damaged and dry skin because
they exfoliate on the surface of skin and have the added benefit of also
improving moisture content.
- BHA is preferred for oily, acne-prone skin and for treating blackheads and white bumps
because BHA can get through the oil that's clogging your pores,
normalizing the lining of the misshapen pore that contributes to acne.
- BHA has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial action. Those are two more reasons to use a BHA exfoliant if you have acne or sensitive, reddened skin.
- BHA is preferred for those struggling with rosacea.
Not everyone with rosacea can tolerate an exfoliant, but it is wise to
experiment with a BHA product to see how your rosacea responds. It is
quite likely you'll see less redness and a smoother, more even skin with
fewer breakouts.
If your skin is sun-damaged and you're also struggling with acne or
clogged pores, add a BHA product to your routine. If you'd like to use
an AHA and BHA at the same time, that is an option, though not really
necessary. Some people find they work well when they're applied at the
same time, but if you want to give this a try it is best to apply them
separately, one during the day and one in the evening.
How Do I Use an AHA or BHA Exfoliant?
- You can apply an AHA or BHA product once or twice a day.
- You can also apply either of these around the eye area but not on the eyelid or directly under the eye.
- Apply the AHA or BHA product after your face is cleansed and after your toner has dried.
- Once the AHA or BHA has been absorbed, you can apply any other
product in your routine, such as moisturizer, serum, eye cream,
sunscreen, and/or foundation.
- If you're using a topical prescription product such as Renova,
other retinoids, or any of the topical prescription products for
rosacea, apply the BHA or AHA first.
- The Paula's Choice Research Team's complete list of the best AHA and BHA products is available on Beautypedia.
Should I Use a Scrub to Exfoliate?
Scrubs are certainly an option for exfoliating your skin, but they
have limitations you don't have to worry about with an AHA or BHA
exfoliant. Scrubs only deal with the very top, superficial layer of skin
while most of the unhealthy, built-up skin cells are beyond the reach
of a scrub. What is most problematic is that many scrubs have a rough,
coarse, uneven texture that can cause skin damage by tearing into the
skin as it abrades away the surface, causing tiny tears that damage the
skin's barrier. Scrubs often cause more problems than they could
possibly solve.
If you do want to use a manual scrub, you can simply use a gentle
washcloth with your daily cleanser, which works just as well to
exfoliate the surface of skin as any cosmetic scrub you can buy. As a
bonus, washcloths are softer (thus gentler) and of course they don't
contain pore-clogging ingredients that oily, acne-prone skin doesn't
need.
Is it Possible to Exfoliate Too Often?
Exfoliating your skin is great, but how often to use one that works
best for your skin type takes experimenting. It is possible to overdo
it, and your skin will tell you if you've gone too far. For some people
once a day works best, for others every other day, or once a week.
However, exfoliating does not negatively affect how healthy skin cells
are generated in the lower layers of skin. If anything, exfoliating
unhealthy dead skin cells on the surface of skin can improve collagen
production, increase skin's ability to hold moisture, and allow pores to
function normally!
Chemical peels has to do with applying a type of "chemical agent" to the skin
for the purposes of exfoliating sun-damaged, thickened surface skin
while stimulating collagen production for firmer skin. The popularity of
chemical peels lessened when lasers became the accepted method for
treating wrinkles and brown spots but in balance, depending on the
amount of wrinkling present and desired results, chemical peels still
play a significant role in skin resurfacing.
What Do Peels Contain?
Peel solutions most typically contain
either alpha hydroxy acids (an AHA such as glycolic acid), beta hydroxy
acid (salicylic acid, also known as BHA), tricholoracetic acid (TCA), or
phenol as the exfoliating agent. Each of these are categorized by the
concentration and the resulting depth of the peel on the skin which can
range from superficial (also known as micro or light peels) to medium or
deep peels. Results are closely linked to the depth of peel performed.
Superficial peels (typically those using low concentrations of AHA or
BHA) offer far less dramatic improvement than medium or deep peels
(usually TCA or phenol-based) do. Overall, you can expect minor to major
improvement in fine lines and wrinkles, skin discolorations, skin
texture, rebuilding of collagen, removal of blackheads, and a temporary
reduction in excessive oil production.
What Can a Peel Do...and Not Do?
With any peel it is important to know what's possible so you can keep your expectations realistic and spare yourself disappointment. Chemical peels in any form cannot remove or reduce the appearance of blood vessels on the skin, they cannot change the appearance of enlarged pores, they do not have an effect on keloidal (raised) scarring, they do not work as a face-lift, and they have limited benefit for improving skin discoloration for those with darker skin color. They can make skin
smoother, help fade brown spots and an uneven skin tone from sun damage,
and generally make skin's surface look fresher and younger. Having
peels done on a regular basis (say, every 6-8 weeks) will lead to
collagen stimulation that improves the appearance of wrinkles.
There
are definite drawbacks to consider with peels, but this is largely
dependent on the type and depth of peel. Superficial peels have few
associated risks but also offer less noticeable results. Some redness,
swelling, and increased skin sensitivity can occur with superficial
peels. You may also experience a period of intense flaking as the old,
damaged skin is replaced by fresh, smooth new skin.
When
significant results are desired, complications increase proportionately.
Medium and deep peel complications can include scarring, infection,
temporary or permanent changes in skin color (this is especially true
for deeper peels), and cold sore breakouts for those with a history of
cold sores. For these reasons, many cosmetic dermatologists are forgoing
deeper peels in favor of what can be accomplished more safely with
light-emitting and laser devices.
Chemical peels are performed by
the application of the specific solution that actually dissolves the
skin's top layers, either over the entire face or on specific areas.
Often, several shallow to medium-depth peels can achieve similar results
to one deep-peel treatment, with less post-procedure risk and a shorter
recovery time. Talk to your dermatologist about this option and see if
it may be the best approach to take.
AHA Peels
Alpha
hydroxy acid (AHA) peels uses glycolic acid as the peeling ingredient
and these are considered superficial to medium peels depending on the
concentration utilized. Typically the concentrations range from 30% to
70%. AHA peels are effective in improving skin texture, causing some
collagen and elastin rebuilding, minimally reducing the appearance of
acne scarring, and reducing the appearance of skin discolorations.
Repeated treatments are necessary for all concentrations to maintain
results.
Important Note:
AHA peels are not medical procedures and as a result are not regulated
by the FDA. A physician usually performs higher-concentration peels
(more than 30%), but this is not always the case. Lower-concentration
peels (20% to 30%), often performed by aestheticians, require repeated
treatments to achieve and maintain the results seen immediately after
the peel is performed.
After any peel, the practitioner should
apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen (preferably one whose only active
ingredients are titanium dioxide or zinc oxide) to your skin. Skin will
be sun-sensitive for a few weeks after the peel, and it makes sense to
use sun protection to protect the investment you just made. Don't bother
with peels if you insist on getting a tan, either from the sun or from a
tanning bed. A reputable, ethical dermatologist would never offer a
peel to someone who is visibly tan or cannot commit to daily sun
protection.
BHA Peels
Beta
hydroxy acid (BHA) or salicylic acid peels are not as popular as AHA
peels, yet they can be equally effective and have specific advantages
for some skin types. A salicylic acid solution can work in a way that is
similar to a glycolic acid peel, but irritation may be reduced.
Salicylic acid is a compound closely related to aspirin (acetylsalicylic
acid), and it retains its aspirin-like anti-inflammatory properties. A
deep BHA peel can be superior for many skin types because the irritation
and inflammation are kept to a minimum due to the analgesic action of
the BHA compound. Salicylic acid is also lipid soluble; therefore, it is
a good peeling agent for blemish-prone skin with blackheads. The most
common concentrations used today are 20% to 30%
BHA
peels are also the preferred option for those with sensitive skin,
including skin affected by rosacea. Note that some people with rosacea
cannot tolerate salicylic acid. If you have rosacea, consider
experimenting with a skin-care product that contains salicylic acid,
such as one of Paula's Choice BHA exfoliants, before considering a BHA
peel.
TCA Peels
Trichloroacetic
acid (TCA) peels (sometimes called Blue Peel) in concentrations up to
50% are superficial to medium peels and have been around for years with a
history of being effective and safe. This type of peel can be used for peeling the
face, neck, hands, and other areas of the body. It has less bleaching
effect than phenol (see below) and is excellent for "spot" peeling of
specific areas. TCA peels are best for fine lines but are minimally
effective on deeper wrinkling.
Jessner's
peel is a medium-depth peel containing 14% salicylic acid, 14% lactic
acid, and 14% resorcinol. Though considered effective and easy to use,
there is little research on this method. We do know this peel becomes
stronger as more layers are applied. The amount of resorcinol in this
peel makes it more irritating than AHA or BHA peels, and it is generally
not recommended for those with dark skin tones due to the risk of
resorcinol causing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Phenol
is sometimes, though rarely, used for full-face peeling when sun damage
or wrinkling is severe. It can also be used to treat limited areas of
the face, such as deep wrinkles around the mouth, but it may permanently
bleach the skin, leaving a line of demarcation between the treated and
untreated areas that must be covered with makeup. "Although phenol
produces the most remarkable resolution of actinic damage and wrinkling
among the various [chemical peels]... it also possesses some of the more
significant [serious side effects]. Many have abandoned phenol in favor
of other agents or laser resurfacing... . Hypopigmentation may occur in
all skin types, noticeably lightening patients with darker skin and
making lighter-skinned patients appear waxy or pale. A clear line of
demarcation may be present between treated and untreated skin".
Buffered
phenol offers yet another option for severely sun-damaged skin. One
such formula uses olive oil, among other ingredients, to diminish the
strength of the phenol solution. Another, slightly milder formula uses
glycerin. A buffered phenol peel may be more comfortable for patients,
and the skin heals faster than with a standard phenol peel, but it is
still a risky procedure that can depigment the skin.
On balance, we recommend forgoing phenol peels in favor of laser
treatments such as Fraxel.
What About At-Home Peels?
Many
women ask us about the number of peels sold online for use at home.
These peels often advertise having high concentrations of AHAs or BHA
and some contain other peeling agents along with these popular standbys.
We cannot stress enough how potentially dangerous these peels can be.
If they're as effective as claimed or if they really contain the amount
of acid(s) advertised and the pH is within range for them to work, you
could be setting your skin up for some serious damage. In the wrong
hands or used incorrectly or too often, at-home peels can cause burns,
extremely sensitive skin, discolorations (from loss of pigment), and
persistently dry, flaky skin that doesn't respond to even very rich
moisturizers. If you decide to ignore our warnings and try this anyway,
proceed with caution.
The other issue with at-home peels is that
despite the impressive claims in terms of amount of acid they contain,
the pH may be buffered beyond the range needed for efficacy. So yes, the
peel you're considering contains 50% glycolic acid, but because the pH
when mixed is above 4, you're not going to see much in the way of
results. The good news? A higher pH like this means the peel poses less
risk of causing excess irritation.
The Final Decision
Whichever way, whether
to have a peel and what type to get depends on the condition of your
skin, your skin type, and keeping your expectations realistic. Most
important is for you to know that a peel isn't an anti-aging cure-all.
For example, peels cannot help with sagging skin and they don't replace
the results possible from cosmetic corrective procedures such as Botox
or any of the numerous dermal fillers. Peels are helpful for improving
skin tone, texture, and for some cases of hyperpigmentation (brown
spots) but for best results, they must be accompanied by daily use of a
well-formulated sunscreen rated SPF 25 or greater along with a brilliant
anti-aging skin-care routine. Now that's a beautiful combination proven
to help you look younger, longer!
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